In Buenos Aires, soon there will be more pizzerias than grills. Yes, that’s right. While the barbecue is the King of the city, the pizza is a Princess willing to do anything to get to the throne. According to the Department of Tourism of the City of Buenos Aires:
there are around 650 pizzerias (versus 780 grills) and around 39,000 pizzas are eaten every day (14 million a year!)
The pizza has an interesting story in this city. Buenos Aires –together with New York and Chicago– is one of the cities that adopted this dish and gave it a unique style. For instance, they made it higher and added more cheese–sometimes up to 400 grams per pizza– or new varieties (onion and cheese) or “cancha style” (tomato sauce, garlic, onion and pepper) were added. Pizza came to Buenos Aires at the end of 19th century with Agustín Banchero, an Italian immigrant, but later it was taken by the Spanish, who founded the most famous pizzerias in the city.
* There are three types of pizza, according to their height: “a la piedra” (very thin and crusty), “media masa” (0.5” high), “de molde” (1” high). Classic pizzerias usually sell the last two options.
Corrientes Avenue, with theatres and restaurants opened until midnight, is the corridor of big pizza temples. You can first start down Corrientes, visiting El Palacio de la Pizza (Av. Corrientes 751), which seems to be stuck in the 40s. In fact, boards advertise sodas which no longer exist. The pizza is tall and with abundant cheese. The rules says that you have to eat one slice at the bar, standing, like regular customers. Near the Obelisk, there are two classics which cannot be missed. Las Cuartetas (Av. Corrientes 838) –we recommend the vegetable and white sauce variety– and Guerrín (Av. Corrientes 1368), authentic and noisy like no other, pizzas are made in a wood fire and are delicious. And there are more on Corrientes Avenue: El Imperio de la Pizza (Av. Corrientes 6895, Villa Crespo), Pin Pun (Av. Corrientes 3954, Almagro), Los Inmortales (Av. Corrientes 1369) and La Rey (Av. Corrientes 965).
It was visited by Anthony Bourdain when he came to film his show. With a soccer-like environment, this old pizzeria (it has recently turned 80 years) was born in a small room and it was a famous spot of tango singers and sportsmen. It is a good place to visit with a group. Where? Talcahuano 937, Centro. What should you order? Neapolitan pizza, with plenty of garlic, or anchovies pizza.
There are hundreds spread all over the city. In San Telmo, for instance, Pirilo (Defensa 821) is the most famous, a small store with no tables, which serves pizza to eat standing since 1932. Fugazzeta is the best choice here. In Villa Crespo, on Cordoba Avenue, visit Angelín (Av. Córdoba 5270), the creator of “cancha style” pizza, whose ovens have been working since 1932. The most famous in Chacarita is La Mezzeta (Av. Álvarez Thomas 1321), with its lush double fugazzeta, also to eat standing. An in Belgrano, Burgio (Av. Cabildo 2477), on Avenida Cabildo, is a must.
* A curiosity: Porteños love their pizza. Maybe that's why no English chain succeeded in Buenos Aires. Pizza Hut tried it twice: once in the 80s, and once in the 90s, and did not succeed.
There are two pizzerias serving the vera Neapolitan pizza. One is Siamo Nel Forno (Costa Rica 5886, Palermo) and the other is Parténope (Av. Libertador 4004, Zona Norte). Both are very good. If you like thin pizza with original toppings, visit La más querida, in Belgrano, which serves rectangular pizza: The option called “la de la casa” includes salmon, mushrooms, arugula and fresh basil.
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