Together with New York and Chicago, Buenos Aires is one of the cities that reinvented the Italian pizza, creating its own varieties such as fugazzetta (onion and cheese), canchera (spicy pizza without cheese) or fugazza (onion pizza). Porteños like pizza with lots of cheese (and when we say lots, we mean almost one pound per unit) and mainly high. Deep-dish pizzas are almost 1 in high and half deep dish pizzas are 0.5 in high.
WHERE TO TRY THEM: THERE ARE ANTIQUE PIZZA STORES IN NEIGHBORHOODS THAT REMAIN INTACT, SUCH AS GUERRIN, AV. CORRIENTES 1368, DOWNTOWN. OR WITH THE SAME SPIRIT, BUT FAR AWAY FROM THE TOURISM AREA, YOU CAN GO TO LA MEZZETTA, ALVAREZ THOMAS 1321, BETWEEN THE NEIGHBORHOODS OF COLEGIALES AND CHACARITA
Turnovers are part of the Argentine DNA, and many provinces have their own recipe: there are varieties made in Salta, Santiago del Estero, Tucuman; some are sweet, others are spicy; but they are all delicious. They can be baked or fried, and some add a pinch of sugar on top. Suitable as a starter, you will surely be offered one as a snack in some Steakhouses. Pizza stores are also a good place to try them.
WHERE TO TRY THEM: FOR MANY PEOPLE, THE BEST TURNOVERS OF THE PLANET ARE EATEN AT LA COCINA, PUEYRREDÓN 1508, RECOLETA. DO NOT EXPECT A LUXURY RESTAURANT; IT IS A SMALL, BUT AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT
It is the Argentine version of the British “Shepherd's pie”, and it is prepared with cow meat instead of lamb. The mixture is thoroughly spiced and is sautéed with onion, pepper, and sometimes boiled egg and peas. Finally, it is covered with mashed potato, a little cheese, cooked in the oven and voila! It's delicious.
WHERE TO TRY IT: OF A COOL FAMILY RESTAURANT STYLE, IN santa evita, julián álvarez 1479, PALERMO
A hyper caloric and winter dish, and very convenient. If you visit the city with below-zero temperatures, you will surely find lots of restaurant offering this dish as the fresh meal of the day. After eating a lentil stew, your body will literally recover its soul. It is prepared with lentils, as well as potato, carrots and some proteins: bacon, sausage or meat. It is delicious in any manner.
WHERE TO TRY IT: OF A FAMILY RESTAURANT STYLE, LA MORADA, HIPÓLITO YRIGOYEN 778, DOWNTOWn
It is a typical dish from the Rio de la Plata that is generally prepared with meat, bone marrow, vegetables, legumes, red sausage and sometimes chicken. Each has its own recipe. It is a winter dish to be shared among several people, but it is more usual to have it at home than in restaurants. Anyway, there are some places in Buenos Aires serving a good version of this dish.
WHERE TO TRY IT: OF A TRADITIONAL STYLE, EL GLOBO, HIPÓLITO YRIGOYEN 1199, DOWNTOWN.
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The milanesa is the most Argentine dish ever: it is eaten from La Quiaca -the North-, up to Ushuaia -the South end of the country-. It is eaten in sandwich, on the plate, fried, and in one of its best versions: Napolitan style. It is said that this variety was born in the 40s in a bar near Luna Park stadium, when a cook overcooked a milanesa and tried to “disguise it” by adding cheese, tomato, and ham on top. Beyond all fashionable style, it is an essential classic on the Argentine table.
WHERE TO TRY IT: RONDINELLA, ÁLVAREZ THOMAS 12, COLEGIALES
There is a lot of controversy regarding the origin, but one thing is certain: the Gramajos scrambled eggs was not introduced by immigrants as many dishes in Argentina; instead, it is a local creation. It is tan as simple as delicious: it is a mixture of eggs, thinly cut potatoes (paille), peas and ham (also replaced by bacon). After decades of unfair oblivion, nowadays it is being included in restaurant menus.
WHERE TO TRY IT: IN ONE OF THE ICONIC BARS OF THE CITY NIGHT, 878, THAMES 878, PALERMO
We know that it is not haute cuisine dish, but in the city, it is very usual to sit in a bar and ask for a coffee with a ham and cheese toasted sandwich. This sandwich is a part of the local culinary identity. It is very easy: it requires good bread (it can be cut loaf, brioche, Arab or Vienna), good cheese and good natural ham. It must be warmed for a few seconds on the fire to make it crusty, but careful! It must not get burnt.
WHERE TO TRY IT: AT THE TYPICAL CITY CAFETERIA LIKE PAULÍN, SARMIENTO 635, DOWNTOWN. OR IN A MORE MODERN AND RELAXED VERSION, AWAY FROM THE TOURIST AREA, AT LE BLÉ, DORREGO 999, CHACARITA
It is one of the sweetest and loved desserts of porteños. Almost every restaurant, from the neighborhood canteen to the most refined restaurant, has its own version. The quality of the ingredients is paramount to get a harmonious set: it is prepared with whole eggs (much better if they are farm eggs), milk and sugar. The most famous was the one prepared by Doña Petrona -the Argentine Julia Child.
WHERE TO TRY IT: IN IL MATERELLO, MARTÍN RODRÍGUEZ 517, LA BOCA, A TYPICAL ITALIAN CANTEEN, BUT DECORATED IN THE CAMINITO STYLE
Chocolate cookies, milk caramel and cream cheese are the three basic ingredients of this cake served at almost every Argentine party and celebration. It is practical, easy and multitarget -everybody likes it- it was invented for an advertisement more than 30 years ago and it was easily imposed. Mmmm!
WHERE TO TRY IT: In Scarlett (Nicaragua 4457), a charming tea house in Palermo
BY CECILIA BOULLOSA
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